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Forestry and fibre

Growing flax for regenerative textiles

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The research

This field lab involves growers who are part of an emerging network aiming to re-establish a regenerative textile (particularly linen) supply chain in the UK, with a particular focus in Scotland.

The trial’s main objectives are to ascertain how well flax grows in a range of soil types, measured by crop establishment and yield; and to compare the performance of 3 varieties in a range of soil types.

The secondary objectives are to explore factors which may influence the retting process (e.g. time retted, number of turnings, weather); and to compare the fibre quality of 3 varieties.

The benefits

  • 80% of the world’s flax crop is grown in Belgium, France, and the Netherlands
  • There is little contemporary research available on growing modern varieties in UK soil types and climates.
  • This trial is the first small step in exploring a resurgence in flax production and processing in Scotland.
  • If successful, it is hoped that it will lead to further trials on a larger scale, with a longer-term aim is of making a case for industry investment in specialist harvest and processing equipment. 

Trial design

There will be three main trial sites.  Each site will grow 3 replicates of each variety (Avian, Delta, Tango) on 10sqm plots, totalling 9 plots per site. Plots will be randomised in three reps. Seed will be sown in rows 125mm apart at a rate of ~10g/sqm.

None of these varieties are commercially available in the UK yet.

Other community growers will also be encouraged to take part in a wider, support trial. 

The field lab will follow the production process from seed to harvested crop; measuring establishment & yield and comparing these across varieties and sites.

The seeds for the trial are being provided by Elsoms Seeds.

Latest updates
May 16 2023

Crops sown

The flax is now in the ground: three varieties across the three trial sites. There are also 30 community plots across Scotland taking part in the trials. The next stage will be in July / August when the flax will flower and then it will be harvest time.

Trial plot being sown - photo from Lauriston Farm

Seeds sown

May 2023

Harvest

August 2023

Retting complete

September 2023

Crop collected

October 2023

Crop processed into yarn

December 2023

Linen products made

March 2024

Group Coordinator

A portrait of Colleen McCulloch.
Colleen McCulloch

Colleen McCulloch

Scotland

Colleen McCulloch is an independent facilitator, consultant and project manager, specialising in agroecological food & farming systems. Formerly Soil Association Scotland’s senior farming programmes manager, she has spent the last 10 years building, supporting and mobilising farmer-led innovation groups and networks across Scotland and the UK. This has involved many inspiring projects, including leadership of Scotland’s Rural Innovation Support Service - a national collaboration which ‘connected farmers and supply chain actors to develop innovative projects, that delivered sustainable solutions to real world challenges’. Colleen has a mixed background in organic farming, research and ecology; and combines these to support the transition towards more organic and agroecological food production.

Researchers

A portrait of James Hutton Institute.
James Hutton Institute

Aberdeen

Downloadable Reports

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